Wild Horses, Nomads and Lakes Trek with Lama Festival A challenging high-altitude trek in Ladakh in the Indian Himalaya
with Carol & Martin Noval 27 July to 18 August 2009 (15 days on the trek)
DELHI - LEH - LAMA FESTIVAL - PANG - TSO MORIRI LAKE - KARZOK - TSO KAR LAKE - RUMTSE - THIKSEY - LEH - DELHI
On this trek we explore the high-altitude lake region of the Changthang
Plateau, in Ladakh, India's "Little Tibet." This is nomad country - here
Changpa nomads live in encampments of yak wool tents with yak tail standards
protecting them from evil spirits, and graze vast flocks of pashmina goats,
sheep and herds of yak.
The area is rich in wildlife - kyang (the wild horse of the Changthang),
wild goats, marmots, giant wild hares and a great variety of birds:
bar-headed geese - mothers and fathers bobbing on the lakes with their
goslings - brahminy ducks, gigantic "bearded" vultures, terns, accentors,
redstarts, hoopoes, larks, ravens, choughs, snow pigeons and Tibetan snow
cocks and the rare black-necked crane.
There are beautiful stone "mani" walls along our way, each stone carved with
the mantra "Om Mane Padme Hum," "The Jewel is in The Lotus," the mantra of
the Buddha of Compassion, Avalokiteshvara. For more than a thousand years,
Tibetan Buddhist culture and religion have flourished in Ladakh and continue
to do so today.
We enter dimensions of reality lost to the modern world, coming into touch
with the primordial elements in their pre-civilized condition of purity -
earth, water, fire and air - and space, the fifth element. Here in the
Himalayas space is palpable; it is the origin of sound; up here, space
chants AUM, the cosmos's first sound, the sound that gives rise to all
things.
It's a short but amazing flight from Delhi to Leh (11,880 feet), capital of
Ladakh, India's "little Tibet," with its fascinating lanes and bazaars and
Leh Palace, a mini-Potala, and the world's highest polo field. We spend a
couple of days acclimatizing while exploring the town.
Leh was a transit point for caravans on the bygone Silk Route, and still has
the look and feel of an ancient market town. The Old Palace looms over Leh.
The gracious and charming townspeople wear their distinctive, traditional
costumes of hand-spun and hand-woven wool and distinctive velvet "top hats."
The fantastic bazaars are stocked with treasures from these high mountain
lands. We stay in the deluxe Hotel Omasila, surrounded by colorful gardens
with fabulous views of the Stok Range across the Indus River.
We drive to a small village with our trekking crew, camp nearby and attend a
festival at an ancient g gompa belonging to the most archaic sect of Tibetan
Buddhism. The lamas perform sacred rituals and mask dances, the masks
representing guardian deities.
It is a fascinating drive crossing the Takling La Pass (17,257 feet) to our
first campsite at Pang (15,695 feet) where we meet our horsemen and horses.
The trek begins:
We trek through narrow winding valleys along clear streams bordered by lush
grass and colorful wildflowers and cross passes with great views. Along our
way we meet Changpa nomads - maroon-robed men and women on gorgeously
decorated mountain horses. We stay at high altitude (between 14,625 and
15,600 feet) for most of the trek and get the inimitable feeling of high
mountain euphoria, a feeling of purity and the comprehension of crystalline
clarity that has always led traditional people to identify great heights
with divinity. We come to understand why the Himalaya has been called the
abode of the gods.
From the top of the first pass we reach (16,250 feet), the snow-covered
peaks of Tibet line the horizon. At the top of the Yalungnayu La, the
highest pass we cross (17,550 feet), a rock wall anchors wooden poles to
which are tied innumerable strings of many-colored fluttering prayer flags
stamped with mantras emitting vibrations of peace and compassion to the
world below.
We camp on the shores of two high-altitude lakes, Tso Kar, ringed by a
necklace of gleaming white salt deposits, and vast Tso Moriri , with fresh
water and containing every shade of blue you can imagine. Herds of wild
horses cavort on its shores. Surrounded by cream-colored hills and meadows,
Tso Moriri is a vast expanse of azure water, a blue that is other-worldly,
truly electrifying. The color of the lake changes throughout the day
depending on the light; at times parts of it seem to disappear as if
"captured" by the reflections of the tan peaks behind it. Just at the
northern edge of the lake is the village of Karzok, one of those frontier
places that looks as if it's at the end of the world. Local traders sit
behind great piles of pashmina and sheep wool and a myriad of goods that
come over the not-so-far-a way border with Chinese Tibet.
At the end of the trek we drive back to Leh (11,880 feet ). We visit the
16th-century Thiksey Monastery, spilling down a hillside and housing a huge
golden statue of the Buddha Maitreya, the Buddha to come. The views from the
monastery's rooftop terrace over the Indus Valley are spectacular.
On the trek, horses carry all luggage and supplies. You need only carry
light daypacks with a water bottle, light jacket, etc. Our crew sets up camp
and prepares delicious meals.
It's a short flight from Leh to Delhi over the moon-land landscape of Ladakh
with grand views of mountains and glaciers. You will be met at the airport
and transferred to your hotel.
The trip price is $3200 per person. It includes airport transfers, roomy
Gortex tents on the trek, hotel accommodation in Leh, mineral water and
beverages (except for alcoholic ones), all meals , snacks, entrance fees,
road travel by SUV, the flight s from Delhi to Leh and Leh to Delhi , and is
based on double occupancy (single supplement: $200) and a group size of 8
members. Carol and Martin meet you when you arrive in Leh and guide you
throughout the trip until you fly from Leh to Delhi where you will be met
and transferred to your hotel. The trip price does not include hotels,
meals, transport (other than airport transfers) in Delhi.
About last year's trek:
"That trip was everything a great trip should be - mentally intriguing,
physically challenging, and just a wonderful time. I hope we are lucky
enough to go on another trip with you." Jim Ivers
"Everyone had a splendid time; we are trying to get our pictures organized
so we can relive it one more time." Andrew Biggs
"Thanks so much for the Great Trip. You were the perfect
hosts/guides/educators/new friends." Gerry Copeland and Margie Heller
More about trekking with us:
"a perfect and powerful trip . I feel very fortunate that I happened upon a
tour being led by such knowledgeable, interesting ...and WELL ORGANIZED
people - thanks again... "
Jim Tepperman
"I just want to thank you for both for your wonderful leadership and great
knowledge of the area, history, and culture. I have great memories to
cherish." Candice Yu Simon
